The Easiest Place In The World To Buy A Birkin

And yet, in Tokyo, I walked into a boutique and bought a 2003 Birkin 30 in Havana Togo leather in excellent condition and approximately $10,000 less than what the same bag would cost through most U.S. resellers. No appointment, no waiting list, no whispered introductions required.

If you know anything about Hermès, you know that’s unusual. The Birkin is famously difficult to find—a rare combination of craftsmanship and scarcity that makes it one of the most sought-after bags in the world. For many, buying one isn’t just a shopping trip; it’s a years-long process of strategic relationship-building and selective spending. In the U.S. and Europe, hopeful buyers speak of “building their spend,” investing in jewelry, shoes, home décor, and small leather goods they may not even want, all in the hopes of someday being offered the bag they actually do.

For many, buying one isn’t just a shopping trip; it’s a years-long process of strategic relationship-building and selective spending.

Entire online communities now document this pursuit, sharing what to say, what not to say, and which stores might give you the best odds. Some people spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on their so-called Hermès “journey” before they ever get the bag of their dreams, if at all.

But in Japan, it’s refreshingly different. You can simply walk into a boutique and browse from a vast selection of ready-to-purchase inventory.

While my husband, Jason, has Hermès shoes and belts that he genuinely loves, we never purchased them as part of a larger goal to get one of the world’s most coveted handbags new from the retailer. Yet in Japan, it was refreshingly simple (and less expensive) to get a bag I’d always dreamed of.

How did we get here—to a point where one of the world’s oldest family-run fashion houses is known as much for its secrecy as for its craftsmanship? Let’s start at the beginning.

How We Got Here: From Saddles to Status Symbols

Before it became the maker of the world’s most coveted handbags, Hermès was known for something far more functional: horse harnesses. Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès as a harness and saddle workshop in Paris, the company’s earliest clients were European nobility. Its reputation for craftsmanship grew quickly, and over the next century, Hermès evolved from outfitting carriages to outfitting people; first with travel trunks and luggage, then handbags and accessories.

Hermès has remained family-owned for nearly two hundred years, and with that comes a kind of restraint rare in luxury. It doesn’t chase trends, and the brand is proud to have no marketing department. Instead, its reputation rests on quality, craftsmanship, and word of mouth. In the brand’s understated way, it has always trusted its work to speak for itself.

The first of its iconic bags was the Kelly, designed in the 1930s and later renamed after actress Grace Kelly, who used it to shield her pregnant belly from the press. Decades later, the Birkin was born from a chance meeting between actress Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight to London. The story goes that Birkin couldn’t quite fit her wicker basket in the overhead compartment, and as the contents tumbled out, she and Dumas struck up a conversation about what the perfect everyday bag might look like. Dumas sketched the design right there on the plane, and the rest is luxury history.

Each Hermès bag is still made start to finish by a single artisan—a practice that requires years of training before an artisan is trusted to create a Kelly or Birkin. Every stitch is done by hand; each piece of hardware is individually polished; and the leather is selected with meticulous precision. A single bag can take upwards of forty hours to complete. The brand’s unofficial motto could easily be “slow fashion, perfected.”

The result is not just a handbag but a cultural phenomenon; one that’s become as much about the process as the product. Over time, the Birkin became more than a symbol of elegance; it became a symbol of access. And the more unattainable it seemed, the more the world wanted one.

The Game: How Hermès Keeps Desire High

At most luxury brands, you can buy whatever you want if you have the money. At Hermès, that’s not how it works. Even if you can afford a Birkin, you can’t simply walk into a store and purchase one. You have to be offered the opportunity.

While the company doesn’t disclose production numbers, experts estimate there are around 200,000 Hermès bags, including Birkins and Kellys, in circulation worldwide. That’s astonishingly few considering the demand. Each one is handmade by a single artisan, and the brand releases only a limited number each year. The result is a kind of controlled scarcity; one that ensures even the wealthiest customers can’t simply buy their way in.

Even if you can afford a Birkin, you can’t simply walk into a store and purchase one. You have to be offered the opportunity.

Here’s how it usually works: If you’re one of the lucky few deemed “ready,” your sales associate (known as an SA) will schedule what’s called a leather appointment. It’s not a guarantee of getting the bag you’ve been dreaming of; it’s simply an opportunity to be offered a leather item. And in many cases, that offer bears little resemblance to the bag a client actually wants. It could be the wrong color, wrong size, or even a completely different style.

Still, because Hermès culture discourages turning down an offer, most customers accept whatever they’re shown. There’s a well-established fear among customers that politely declining a bag could jeopardize future opportunities. So, they say yes not because it’s love at first sight but because they don’t want to seem ungrateful or lose their place in the unspoken hierarchy.

This dynamic has fueled what can only be described as a luxury feedback loop: Buyers accumulate bags they don’t truly want, and the resale market overflows with near-new inventory. The scarcity of new supply, combined with the abundance of gently used pieces, has pushed secondhand prices to record highs—well above retail.

In theory, there’s something called a quota system, which limits how many quota bags a single customer can purchase in a year in a country; typically two. But most people aren’t offered any at all. Only a select few ever reach that level of access, and for them, it can feel like winning the retail lottery.

Entire online communities have emerged around decoding the process: when to visit, how to approach your SA, what to say (and what not to say). The advice often reads more like social choreography than shopping guidance. And it’s not just the shoppers who are careful—even influencers who share their experiences online tend to speak in cautious, coded language, afraid of offending their SA or the brand. Outspoken entrepreneur Bethenny Frankel, who often reviews luxury and more accessibly priced beauty and fashion, said she was “scolded” by her Hermès SA for legitimizing fake “Firkin” bags from Walmart with her reviews.

Some people spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on items they don’t particularly want, hoping their next scarf, bracelet, or pair of sandals might finally lead to a bag offer. It’s a fascinating social experiment: a luxury house that has managed to turn patience and politeness into currency.

The Price of Desire: What a Birkin Really Costs

Hermès doesn’t publicize its prices, but collectors and resellers know them by heart. A new Birkin 30 in Togo leather currently retails for around $12,000 to $15,000 USD, depending on the hardware, color, and country. But that’s only if you can get one at retail, which is nearly impossible.

On the resale market, prices soar. With retail prices starting around $12,000, secondhand values often begin near $30,000 and can easily climb into the six figures. In one extraordinary example, a one-of-a-kind Birkin once owned by Jane Birkin herself sold at a Sotheby’s auction in Paris for more than $10 million in July 2025, becoming the most valuable fashion item ever sold at auction in Europe.

Over the past two decades, Hermès bags have outperformed the S&P 500 and gold, appreciating by an estimated 14% per year.

The Birkin’s aftermarket trajectory is so well documented that it’s now studied alongside traditional investments. Over the past two decades, Hermès bags have outperformed the S&P 500 and gold, appreciating by an estimated 14% per year, according to resale data. By comparison, the S&P 500’s long-term average annual return hovers around 7–8%. Even Chanel’s Classic Flap, once the darling of luxury resale, has seen its own sharp retail price hikes—up more than 75% in the last decade—yet it still can’t match Hermès in long-term resale value.

In short, a handbag has become its own asset class, and one that continues to rise precisely because so few can buy it directly. The company’s refusal to scale production or flood the market keeps prices high, both in stores and on the resale circuit. Collectors know that a well-cared-for Birkin is not just a purchase; it’s an investment.

But this meteoric appreciation also highlights something Hermès can no longer fully control. The brand’s carefully cultivated scarcity has spawned a resale market so powerful that the bags’ trajectory now lives largely outside the company’s own ecosystem. The very thing that makes Hermès special, its exclusivity, has also made it impossible for the house to dictate what happens next.

And because customers fear turning down any offer, many bags end up on the secondary market almost immediately—some still in their orange boxes, untouched. Buyers who skip the store entirely and go straight to resellers often find themselves paying double (or more) for the privilege of certainty.

It’s the ultimate irony: a brand with no marketing department has built one of the most effective pricing and desirability strategies in modern luxury simply by saying “no.”

Why Japan Is Different

If shopping for Hermès in Paris or New York can feel like a test of patience, shopping in Japan feels like a deep exhale. There, the entire experience is stripped of the mystique and maneuvering that define the “Hermès game” elsewhere.

In Japan, Hermès boutiques are known for their straightforwardness. You can simply walk in, look around, and find display cases filled with Birkins, Kellys, and Constances in pristine condition. No relationship-building, no strategic small talk, no coded requests. The conversation is direct, polite, and free of pretense.

In many cases, you don’t even have to describe a hypothetical wish list. Because the country is home to such an extensive resale market and a remarkable number of independent luxury boutiques, you can often choose from dozens of available options yourself. And if you bring your passport to match your credit card, you can even take advantage of Japan’s tax-free shopping, which makes an already pleasant experience that much sweeter.

The difference, in part, comes down to culture. Japanese retail etiquette emphasizes precision, honesty, and courtesy. Sales associates take pride in service, not status theater. Their goal is to help you find what you’re looking for, not to decide whether you’re worthy of it.

No appointment, no waiting list, no whispered introductions required.

It also helps that Japan has some of the strictest anti-counterfeiting laws in the world. Designer goods are deeply appreciated, and people tend to take exceptional care of their belongings, designer or not. This has made Japan one of the most trusted destinations for buying pre-owned luxury, because it’s a place where secondhand truly means like new.

That respect for craftsmanship extends to Japan’s thriving resale scene, which blends curation with reverence. Shops like Amore Tokyo, Qoo Vintage, Camellia Vintage, Xiaoma, and Paradise Vintage are renowned for their immaculate organization, pristine inventory, and rigorous authentication standards. These boutiques often feel more like museums than resale stores, with every bag displayed like an artifact, every transaction handled with care.

It was in one of these shops that I found my 2003 Birkin 30 in Havana Togo leather—beautifully preserved, fairly priced, and available without fanfare. The experience was almost anticlimactic in the best possible way. There was no tension, no test, no sense of trying to prove anything. Just a kind salesperson, an elegant boutique, and a moment of quiet delight. The price we paid was also about $10,000 less than what the same bag in comparable condition is listed for by U.S. resellers as of this writing.

In Japan, you don’t have to play the game. You can simply enjoy the art of the bag and the grace of buying it.

How to Be an Informed Hermès Buyer

Whether you’re buying new or pre-loved, knowledge is everything. The more you understand Hermès craftsmanship, pricing, and terminology, the easier it becomes to make a thoughtful and genuinely joyful purchase.

Hermès bags are never ostentatious and have more of an if-you-know-you-know quality to them. Their elegance is quiet, expressed through precise stitching, perfect symmetry, and balanced proportions. Hardware should sit flush against the leather and feel substantial, not shiny or lightweight. The heat stamp inside the bag reveals the artisan’s code and year of production; genuine bags always include this detail, cleanly and consistently pressed.

It also helps to understand how the brand’s offering is structured. The Birkin and Kelly are considered “quota bags,” meaning a customer can buy a maximum of two per year per country (at least in theory). Others, like the Lindy, Evelyne, and Picotin, are non-quota styles and easier to purchase. Still, highly sought-after colors, leathers, and limited editions tend to disappear quickly, no matter the category.

Pricing, too, deserves close attention. Market values fluctuate constantly, and geography matters. Before purchasing, compare both retail and resale prices for the size, leather, and hardware you want. When I bought my Havana Togo Birkin in Japan, it was nearly $10,000 less than comparable listings in the United States; a reminder that where you shop can make a meaningful difference.

If you’re exploring the pre-loved market, prioritize transparency. Reputable boutiques and platforms will always provide detailed photos, serial stamps, and authentication paperwork. A trustworthy seller will disclose provenance or offer a clear inspection and return policy. If a listing feels rushed, vague, or suspiciously inexpensive, that's probably for a reason.

And finally, buy with your heart, not with hashtags. Hermès rewards patience and discernment. Some collectors chase what’s trending; others choose pieces that suit their lives and personal style. The latter group almost always ends up more content, and their collections, ironically, hold their value best.

Being an informed Hermès buyer isn’t about strategy or status. It’s about understanding your own preferences and the art behind the object.

Etiquette to Keep in Mind

Some say Hermès is the ultimate scam: a brand that’s convinced the world to beg, spend, and strategize for the privilege of buying a handbag. If that’s true, the joke’s on me, because I absolutely love mine. It’s beautiful, functional, and it brings me genuine joy every time I carry it.

Still, for all its value, I consider it a stranded asset—something that, while technically appreciating, I have no intention of reselling. Its worth isn’t measured in market performance but in the quiet satisfaction of owning something crafted with care and bought with gratitude.

And because I can’t resist ending with a few notes on grace, here are some gentle reminders for navigating your luxury bag journey:

• Bags don’t belong on the table. If you’re dining out, use a handbag hook or place it neatly on your lap or the chair beside you.

• Avoid asking what something costs. Whether it’s a bag, a home, or a dinner bill, money questions rarely make others feel comfortable.

• Learn the customs where you shop. In Japan, politeness and patience are as powerful as any currency, and don’t be surprised if you’re asked to wear gloves, not allowed to take pictures or video at some shops, or even asked to take off your shoes.

• Be gracious, even when you disagree. You don’t have to love the Hermès model to appreciate the artistry behind it.

• Buy what you love, not what impresses others. True luxury isn’t about being rare or first. It’s about joy, longevity, and discernment.

Hermès may be one of the most mysterious brands in the world, but perhaps that’s part of its charm. It reminds us that patience, discretion, and a sense of occasion never go out of fashion.

If you have a question for a future Ask Alison segment, kindly email info@elevateetiquette.com.

Alison M. Cheperdak, J.D., is the founder of Elevate Etiquette, a consultancy where she teaches modern manners in a gracious and grounded way. She is the author of a forthcoming book, “Was It Something I Said? Everyday Etiquette to Avoid Awkward Moments in Relationships, Work, and Life.”